4Day-Nevado Tocllaraju Expedition Climb 6,034 m Cordillera Blanca

Today we leave the city of Huaraz toward the north and down to the Callejón de Huaylas (also known as the Santa Valley) to the village of Paltay. We continue on an unpaved route to Pashpa (3400 m), on to the small Lake Cochapampa. Here is where our local team of mule drivers waits for us. It is a 90 minute trip from Huaraz to Paltay. We then have a tranquil climb through the Ishinca Valley to our camp, near Refugio Don Bosco. 4-5 hours. Overnight Camp

From this point we can see the Tocllaraju (6034 m), very near. We’ll set up our high camp on the moraine. Hiking time: 4-5 hours. Overnight Camp

Summit day! After a very early breakfast, we proceed over the glacier to the northwest ridge of the peak. Because the glacier changes from year to year, the technical ice climbing is also different from year to year. We might find small walls of ice, up to 60 degree surfaces. The variant direct route is the west face 60° 70° maximal 75° degree - It is demanding / difficult. The summit ridge is secured with fixed ropes. From the 6000+ meter peak, the view opens on the entire Cordillera Blanca. Descend to Base Camp. At noon we return to Moraine Camp and continue to Base Camp. Some 10-12 hours today. Overnight Camp

Today burros will be carrying our camping and personal equipment. We’ll return via a hillside covered with queñuales trees (Polylepis spp.), native to the high Andes. Here our private transport will be waiting. It’s likely we’ll arrive early and have lunch in Huaraz. Lodging in the hotel. Overnight Hote