The White Mughal tour in Hyderabad about Romance & Betrayal

It was the backdrop for an incredible cross cultural love story between James Achilles Kirkpatrick a high ranking official of the East India Company and Khair-un-Nissa a noblewoman. In 1800, Kirkpatrick married her as per Muslim law and converted to Islam. Eventually he became a double agent working for Hyderabad against the interests of the Company! The mansion was built after the Nizams and the British signed a treaty in 1798 to allow the British to settle down in Hyderabad. The mansion was a symbol of British authority in the deccan region. The Durbar Hall is the highlight of the British Residency. It looks regal with Burma Teakwood flooring and Belgian mirrors and French chandeliers. There is also a smaller replica of the Residency. Khair un-Nissa, being a Muslim lady, was in purdah and hence was not allowed to visit the mansion. Therefore James built a replica for his wife to enjoy!

Today it is a major commercial hub of Hyderabad. We will walk past here continuing the White Mughal story. The surrounding area came to be known as Residency Bazaar and emerged as the financial center of Hyderabad in the mid-nineteenth century. After the 1857 Sepoy Mutiny against the British East India Company, the mansion was fortified with high walls and bastions.

Rang Mahal or Palace of colours was where Khair un-Nissa gave birth to their daughter Sahib Begum. It is unfortunately in ruins today. The story of this forbidden cross-cultural love continues at a cemetery and a stepwell and ends at a resident’s dog memorial.